TITLE
Cream Rouge Preparations
DATE OF EXPERIMENT
24th March2016
OBJECTIVES
1. To formulate cream rouge.
2. To study the factor affecting colour shading in powder.
3. To evaluate the effect of storage condition on the final product.
4. To study the effectiveness of the product.
5. To study the presence of irritancy caused by the product.
INTRODUCTION
According
to ASEAN Cosmetic Directive, a cosmetic is any substance or preparation
intended to be placed in contact with the various external parts of the
human body (epidermis, hair system, nails, lips, and external genital
organs) or with the teeth and the mucous membranes of the oral cavity with a purpose
to clean them, change their appearance and/or correcting body odours and/or
protecting them in good condition. According to the U.S. Food
and Drug Administration (FDA), cosmetic is defined as any substance intended to
be applied to the human body for cleansing, beautifying, promoting
attractiveness, or altering the appearance without affecting the body's
structure or functions.
Rouge, commonly knows as blusher, is a cosmetics used to apply colour onto the cheek
to add color to the face, give
more dimension to the cheekbones, harmonize the face-balance between eye makeup
and lipstick and to create subtle changes in the foundation look when lightly
dusted over the face.
Modern rouge preparations usually come in the forms of liquid suspensions, emulsified cream and lotions, and dry solid forms. Early in ancient Egypt, rouge was prepared in the form of ointments and was also applied on the lips,just as the way lipstick would be used today. Both
men and women wore rouge. The colorants used can either be organic pigments, inorganic pigments, natural dyes or pearlescent pigments.
Modern rouge preparations usually come in the forms of liquid suspensions, emulsified cream and lotions, and dry solid forms. Early in ancient Egypt, rouge was prepared in the form of ointments and was also applied on the lips,just as the way lipstick would be used today. Both
men and women wore rouge. The colorants used can either be organic pigments, inorganic pigments, natural dyes or pearlescent pigments.
Currently, the pressed powder becomes more popular among the consumers due to
its desirable matte finishing and long-lasting wear potential. It is applied
with a blush brush. This formula works for all skin types especially for oily
skin. In modern times, rouge consists of a red-coloured talcum-based powder
that is applied with a brush to the cheek.
APPARATUS
Evaporating dish, weighing boat, weighing machine, beaker,
spatula, pestle and mortar
MATERIALS
Cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat, liquid
paraffin, borax, colourants, water
PROCEDURE
1. 80g of the basic cream
formulation is prepared.
2. The cocoa butter,
beeswax, wool fat, cetyl alcohol, liquid paraffin and borax is weighed and is
melted on a evaporating dish by using water bath. The mixture is stirred slowly
during heating process.
3. Once the ingredients
is melted, the mixture is taken from the heat to cool the mixture.
4. The water is added to
the warm mixture and stirred.
5. Step 2 to 4 is
reapeated to prepare 50g of a cream rouge by adding also the 2% of
soluble red colouring agent.
6. 4 other cream rouge is
prepared by diluting 2% cream rouge accordingly to obtain various shades of
colour with the suggested concentration of colouring agent: 0.125- 2%.
7. The rouge preparation
is kept in the dark and also exposed to sunlight for 2 months.
8. Skin irritation test
is conducted on the cream rouge by putting it on the cheek for 8 hours.
RESULT
1.
Stability testing (storage condition)
Rouge
|
Colour
separation
|
Change in
colour
|
Viscosity
|
Contamination
|
C1
|
Pigments
does not separate out on the surface
|
Does not
change much
|
Harden
|
No
contamination
Fungal
growth and microbial growth are not observed
|
C2
|
Pigments
does not separate out on the surface
|
Does not
change much
|
Harden
|
No
contamination
Fungal
growth and microbial growth are not observed
|
C3
|
Pigments
does not separate out on the surface
|
Does not change much
|
Harden
|
No
contamination
Fungal
growth and microbial growth are not observed
|
C4
|
Pigments
does not separate out on the surface
|
Does not change much
|
Harden
|
No
contamination
Fungal
growth and microbial growth are not observed
|
C5
|
Pigments
does not separate out on the surface
|
Does not change much
|
Harden
|
No
contamination
Fungal
growth and microbial growth are not observed
|
Table 1: Cream rouges stored in dark place
Rouge
|
Colour separation
|
Change in colour
|
Viscosity
|
Contamination
|
C1
|
Pigments does not separate
out on the surface
|
Lighter than before
(colour intensity decrease) |
Soften
|
No contamination
Fungal growth and microbial
growth are not observed
|
C2
|
Pigments does not separate
out on the surface
|
Lighter than before
(colour intensity decrease) |
Soften
|
No contamination
Fungal growth and microbial
growth are not observed
|
C3
|
Pigments does not separate
out on the surface
|
Lighter than before
(colour intensity decrease) |
Soften
|
No contamination
Fungal growth and microbial
growth are not observed
|
C4
|
Pigments does not separate
out on the surface
|
Lighter than before
(colour intensity decrease) |
Soften
|
No contamination
Fungal growth and microbial
growth are not observed
|
C5
|
Pigments does not separate
out on the surface
|
Lighter than before
(colour intensity decrease) |
Soften
|
No contamination
Fungal growth and microbial
growth are not observed
|
Table 2: Cream rouges
placed under the sunlight
2.
Effectiveness
Code
|
When tested on skin
|
C1
|
ü Highly
pigmented
ü Non-sticky
ü Mix
very well with the skin
ü Give
soothing effect
ü Give
shiny appearance
ü Skin
feels smooth after application
ü Easy
to wash off
ü Long
lasting
|
C2
|
ü Highly
pigmented
ü Less
sticky
ü Mix
well with the skin
ü Give
soothing effect
ü Give
shiny appearance
ü Skin
feels smooth after application
ü Easy
to wash off
ü Long
lasting
|
C3
|
ü Less
pigmented
ü Less
sticky
ü Does
not mix well with the skin
ü Give
soothing effect
ü Give
shiny appearance
ü Skin
feels smooth after application
ü Easy
to wash off
ü Last
for 5 hours
|
C4
|
ü Less
pigmented
ü Less
sticky
ü Does
not mix well with the skin
ü Give
soothing effect
ü Give
shiny appearance
ü Skin
feels smooth after application
ü Easy
to wash off
ü Last
for 4 hours
|
C5
|
ü Very
low pigmented
ü Sticky
ü Does
not mix with the skin
ü Give
soothing effect
ü Give
shiny appearance
ü Skin
feels smooth after application
ü Easy
to wash off
ü Last
for 3 hours
|
3.
Irritancy
Code
|
Duration
of application
|
Skin
irritancy
|
C1
|
8
hours
|
No
irritation occurs
|
C2
|
8
hours
|
No
irritation occurs
|
C3
|
8
hours
|
No
irritation occurs
|
C4
|
8
hours
|
No
irritation occurs
|
C5
|
8
hours
|
No
irritation occurs
|
DISCUSSION
A
test is carried out to test the effectiveness of the cream rouge formulated.
When cream rouge is applied to skin, all of the cream rouges give soothing
effect, smooth and shiny appearance to the skin. This is due to the ingredients
used such as cocoa butter, beeswax, cetyl alcohol, wool fat and liquid paraffin
which are rich in emollient properties. Emollient is defined as a preparation
which gives soothing or softening effect to the skin. The shiny appearance look
is due to the oily based formulation which makes the skin looks glowy when
light reflection occurs.
Code
C1 and C2 which have high concentration of colorant is highly pigmented when applied to skin while
code C3 and C5 is less pigmented. This is due to the variability of the
concentration of the colorant added to the formulations. Rouges with high
concentration of colorant is highly pigmented when applied to skin while rouges
with low concentration of colorant is less pigmented when applied to skin. For
code C5, the concentration of colorant is only 0.125% thus it is very low
pigmented when applied to skin because the difference in colour of the rouge to
the skin is not much significant.
Code
C1, is non sticky when applied to skin while C2, C3 and C4 is less sticky, and C5 is
sticky when applied to skin. This is because of the presence of wool fat and
liquid paraffin which is able to form a film on a skin to trap moisture.
However, the degree of stickiness of the rouge may be caused by the
concentration of the colorants. The highest content of the colorant stabilize
the effect of the protective film over the skin while the lowest content of the
colorant makes the protective film effect not stable. Because the function of
the wool fat and liquid paraffin is stabilize in rouge C1, it appears non-sticky
and because of the instability of the ingredients in rouge C5, it appears
sticky when applied to skin.
The
rouges are also observed on the ability of it to mix well with the skin. From rouge C1 to C5, the
degree of mixing with the skin is decreasing. This may due to the concentration
of colorants in the rouge that rouge with high concentration of colorants, i.e.
C1 is more stable as compared to rouge with low concentration of colorants,
i.e. C5, thus C1 mix well with the skin but C5 does not. Besides, the other
factor may be due to human error that the ingredients were not being mixed well
during the preparation of formulation. As a result, there are some small
granules which is not well mixed in the preparation, thus causing the rouge to
not being able to mix well with the skin.
Test
for irritation of the skin has also been carried out that the rouges are
applied on skin for 8 hours. All of the rouges do not cause any irritation to
the skin. Based on the formulation, the potential ingredient to cause irritation
is colorants and borax, however due to low content of these ingredients in the
formulation, there is no irritation caused. Furthermore, the usage of borax in
the formulation acts as preservative has helped to secure the rouges from any
microbial action and makes the rouge safe to apply.
1. Discuss the effect of soluble and
insoluble dyes in cream rouges.
A colour additive is any dye,
pigment, or other substance that can change the colour appearance of a
substance. Dye and pigment show distinct properties; a dye is soluble in its
vehicle thus forming a solution whereas a pigment is insoluble in its vehicle that
forms a suspension. Dye possesses chemical affinity to the substrate to which
it is being applied while a pigment does not have affinity to substrate. There
are certain soluble dyes that can be precipitated with a metallic salt to
produce a pigment named lake pigment. The purpose of adding dye into rouge is
to give the colour effect. There are two types of dye, water soluble and oil
soluble; water soluble dye is recommended for colouring soaps, lotions and
salts etc while oil soluble dye is used for oil based formulations. In cream
rouge, oil soluble dye is used instead of insoluble dye because an insoluble
dye gives a rough texture to the cream rouge that is unsuitable to be applied
on the cheeks. In addition, colour of insoluble dye is distributed unevenly in
a substance, because the colour will sediment at the bottom of oil phase. Oil
soluble dyes can dissolve evenly in the oily phase of cream rouge, giving a
uniformly coloured product. Good quality cream rouge has even distribution of
dye so that the reddening effect is effective.
2. Show a chart of colour shading for
cream rouges at the various colorant concentrations. What you concluded?
Five formulations of cream
rouges are produced by varying the concentration of colorant, forming different
colours of cream rouges. C1 rouge has the highest colorant concentration and it
shows the darkest colour. Colorant concentration is diluted to another four
required concentrations to show various colour products. Based on the colour
shading chart, the colour density is decreasing from left to right. This
concludes that as the concentration of colorant decreases, the colour of the
rouge becomes lighter.
3.
How
does storage condition affect your preparations?
Cream
rouges show different changes when they are stored in dark place and placed
under the sunlight. Colour
pigment does not separate out on the rouge surface no matter it is stored in
dark or under the sunlight. This may indicate that the ingredients in
rouges are at stable condition but the small viscosity change shows that the
formulations are very unstable as rouges stored in dark are harden than before
and rouges placed under the sunlight are soften than before. So there must be a
separation of colour pigments out on the surface in which it is not that
obvious. Colour is changed
after the rouges are placed under the sunlight because light affects the
stability of colorant; whereas there is no much colour change in dark.
The colour intensity is decreased after it is placed under the sunlight. This
is because the colorant disappear as it dissolved in the oily based cream. As
for contamination, there is no fungal growth and microbial growth as the rouges
do not expose to air, the container is closed. Since the rouges are not exposed
to sunlight directly, the observations are not all exactly true especially the
contamination. Rouges exposed directly to the sunlight would have a lot of dust
on the surface and microbes and fungus might grow. However, by storing the
rouges in dark and under sunlight with container closed are the most similar
ways of how a rouge user would store it. Normal user would not allow the
container to be opened all the time even though the user is not using it. If
rouge is exposed to sunlight directly, the colour change will be more distinct.
4. Explain the function of each
ingredient.
Basic cream formulation
|
Function
|
Cocoa butter
|
Emollient properties, antioxidant, improves
skin elasticity, promotes healthy collagen production, reduce stretch marks
|
Beeswax
|
Thickening agent, emollient properties
|
Cetyl alcohol
|
Emulsion stabilizer and opacifier,
adding body and viscosity, emollient properties, carrying agent for other
ingredients
|
Wool fat
|
Emollient, moisturiser, cushioning and
protects the skin, creates a protective film over the skin allowing it to
function and breathe naturally, good water hold
|
Liquid Paraffin
|
Retain skin moisture, helps keep the
skin supple
|
Borax
|
Preservative to prevent microbial action
|
Colorants (Erythrosine)
|
Give the color to the rouge
|
Water
qs ad
|
As
diluent
|
5. Determine the shortcomings of the
test procedures. Explain the steps that could be added/modified to overcome
that shortcoming and improve the rests.
There
are some shortcomings during the preparation, which has caused the rouge after
formulation to be a bit less viscous as normal rouge. First of all, the
ingredients used may have contaminated, therefore gloves are worn when handling
the ingredients, apparatus are ensured to be clean from dust and the container
of the ingredients are always covered after use. Next, the ingredients were not
well mixed during the preparation in the pestle with mortar thus causing the
resulting rouge to have some small granules. After that, the temperature of the
water bath used to heat the ingredients at the beginning may not be suitable
for the formulation, thus causing the rouge to be less viscous. Then, parallax error may have occurred
during the experiment which contributes to the inaccurate results of the
experiment. The eye should be parallel to the scale whenever a measurement
is taken.
CONCLUSION
Overall, the formulation
of the cream rouge was a success. However, there are several errors that affect
the texture of the cream rouge. The formulation does not cause irritancy during
8 hour of application. The effectiveness of the cream rouges formulated
(pigmentation formed, ability to mix well and stickiness) is overally good. The
concentration of the colorant affects the color shading of cream rouge. As the
concentration of colorant decreases, the colour of the rouge becomes lighter. Colour
is changed after the rouges are placed under the sunlight because light affects
the stability of colorant; whereas there is no much colour change in dark. The
cream rouges are best to be placed in dark condition as light will lower the
stability of colorant.
REFERENCES
TITLE
Deodorant Preparations
Deodorant Preparations
DATE OF EXPERIMENT
27th April 2016
27th April 2016
INTRODUCTION
Perspiration is a thermoregulation process that cools down
our body and maintains equilibrium in our system. Perspiration itself does not
cause body odour. Body odour is caused by naturally occurring bacteria feed on
sweat secretions from the apocrine gland and release waste products.
Deodorant is a substance that contain antimicrobial agent
that can prevent body odour when applied to the body. There are a few
strategies of deodorant formulations to reduce underarm odour such as antimicrobial
active-containing deodorants, antiperspirant active-containing deodorants,
odour-masking deodorants, odour-neutralizing deodorants, odour-quenching deodorants
and esterase inhibitors. Anti-perspirants differ from deodorants in which it contains
ingredients that control sweat and prevent sweat from reaching the skin
surface, thus reducing the bacteria that cause body odour.
OBJECTIVES
1. To formulate a deodorant.
2. To evaluate the effectiveness of the deodorant and identify if there any irritation
cause by the product.
3. To evaluate the effect of the storage condition of the final product.
APPARATUS
Water bath, evaporating dish, glass rod, container.
MATERIALS
Beeswax, cocoa butter, coconut oil, silicone oil, vitamin E, corn starch, essential
oil/perfumes
PROCEDURES
1. The cocoa butter and beeswax was heat until they melted. Coconut, silicone and
vitamin E oil were added.
2. When all the oils and fats have melted, the essential oil was then added into the mixture.
3. The corn starch was mixed by using hand mixer until homogenous.
4. The molten mixture was poured into the container and was allowed to cool until it hardens.
INGREDIENTS AND CALCULATION:
|
INGREDIENTS
|
PERCENTAGE (%)
|
WEIGHT(g) (for 20g of products)
|
Beeswax
|
20
|
4g
|
Cocoa butter
|
30
|
6g
|
Coconut oil
|
30
|
6g
|
Silicone oil
|
3
|
0.6g
|
Vitamin E oil
|
2
|
0.4g
|
Corn starch
|
12
|
2.4g
|
*Essential oil/perfumes
|
Not more than 3
|
0.6g
|
* Essential oils/ perfume used:
A : Topaz (0.6g)
B : Rose (0.6g)
C : Citrus (0.6g)
D : Apple Blossom (0.6g)
E : Flora (0.6g)
EVALUATION OF PRODUCTS
1. Each
member of our group took their turn to test the products.
2. A
simple questionnaire that will allow each person to compare the effectiveness
of each product and whether the fragrance incorporated is irritating to the
skin was devise.
3. In
the morning, a shower was taken for the test and was dried by a towel. The
underarm that will function as the control was determined. Any preparation was
not applied on this underarm. The same underarm was used as the control
throughout the study.
4. On
the other underarm, not more than 1g of our product was applied.
5.
Exactly after 9 hours of normal daily activities, the questionnaire was filled.
STABILITY TESTING
1. The
remaining products were placed in room temperature and sunny position.
2. After
4 weeks, the product was evaluated.
STABILITY TESTING
Deodorant
|
Storage
Condition
|
Colour
Intensity
|
||
Room temperature
|
Sunny
|
|||
Topaz
|
More soften
|
Less soften
|
No change
|
|
Rose
|
More soften
|
Less soften
|
No change
|
|
Flora
|
More soften
|
Less soften
|
No change
|
|
Apple
Blossom
|
More soften
|
Less soften
|
No change
|
|
Citrus
|
More soften
|
Less soften
|
No change
|
|
DISCUSSION
For
this practical session, the products prepared were roll on deodorant. By definition, a deodorant is a substance
applied to the body designed to reduce body odor
majorly caused by the bacterial breakdown of perspiration in
armpits, feet, and other areas of the body. It is often less irritating than an
anti-perspirant.
Deodorants are often alcohol-based. Alcohol initially
stimulates sweating but it also temporarily kills bacteria. Beeswax is one of
the ingredients used in making the deodorant. Beeswax helps to keep an emulsion from
separating into its oil and liquid components. Beeswax also increase the
thickness of the lipid (oil)
portion of solid and stick-like products, giving them structure, allowing for a
smooth application, and keeping them solid. Next is cocoa butter. Cocoa butter
is a rich emollient, it leaves the skin buttery soft. It contains fatty acids
which help to retain moisture and build elasticity and also has properties
which can help ease dermatitis or rashes. Coconut oil functions as an anti-caking
agent, surfactants, and as skin conditioning agents. Silicone oil used as one
of the ingredients in this experiment has a low surface tension properties
combined with viscosity, can make other components of cosmetics easily spread
into a thin film on the skin, and no sticky feeling. Vitamin E is said to have
anti-inflammatory and analgesic (pain relieving) properties. Studies also
suggest that topical application of vitamin E can decrease skin roughness,
dryness and fine lines, which explains the functions of vitamin E in the
deodorant. While for corn starch, it acts as skin protectant (absorb water,
surfactants and viscosity increasing agents. Finally, perfumes and fragrances
are used in deodorants and antiperspirants in order to mask body odour and
provide a feeling of freshness to the user. In addition to fragrance that
they impart, fragrances/essential oil also acts as antimicrobial agents.
A simple questionnaire is constructed to evaluate the
functionality of the prepared deodorant based on the factors that should be
considered upon designing one. The factors include high efficacy in masking
body odour, long-term deodorization, no irritation potential, the good skin
feeling of the product and the good selection of fragrance. The response from
the respondents for the corresponding items in the survey is measured with
Likert scale ranging from 1 (strongly disagree) to 5 (strongly agree).
Based
on the data obtained, for the five deodorant of different type of fragrances,
almost all of the respondents give positive response which shows that they feel
comfortable after applying the deodorant, do not experience skin irritancy,
feel satisfied with its ability to mask body odour, feel pleasant with the
scent and think that the deodorant is effective in long term deodorization.
Hence, the feedback given proves that the deodorants prepared are highly
effective. After 4 weeks, the colour intensity of the 5 deodorants remains
unchanged. However, the different storage conditions affect the nature of the
deodorant. In sunny condition, the deodorants are less soften than in room temperature
condition. This may due to the difference in the humidity of air for both
conditions.
CONCLUSION
Overall, the formulation is success as the formulated product can perform both deodorant and anti-perspirants properties where body odour is masked and sweating is controlled.
Based on the
evaluation tests carried out, it can be concluded that the products are stable
and do not cause any skin irritation.
REFERENCES
REFERENCES
hp://www.anperspirantsinfo.com/en/anperspirants-and-deodorants/about-anperspirants-and-
deodorants.aspx
hp://www.cosmecsinfo.org/ingredient
http://draxe.com/cocoa-butter/
http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition
http://www.antiperspirantsinfo.com/en/antiperspirants-and-deodorants/about-antiperspirants-and-deodorants.aspx
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient
http://draxe.com/cocoa-butter/
http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition
http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient
http://draxe.com/cocoa-butter/
http://www.paulaschoice.com/cosmetic-ingredient-dictionary/definition
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